- #Under counter task led warm light wired how to#
- #Under counter task led warm light wired install#
- #Under counter task led warm light wired free#
Step 8 Wire Up the LEDs Photo by Kolin Smith Repeat the process for the other wall of cabinets. Use scissors to cut the LED tape across the center of the copper contacts, as shown. Step 7 Cut the Tape Photo by Kolin Smithįrom the middle of the corner cabinet, measure the length of tape needed to cover the cabinets along one wall. From here, you’ll add wiring to branch in two directions to cover both walls of the L-shaped kitchen.
Repeat the process for the white or black wire. Add the red wire to one end of the terminal and tighten the setscrew, as shown. Step 6 Wire Up the Terminal Photo by Kolin SmithĬut the red and black wire so that it reaches the center underneath the corner cabinet. Drape the wiring along the cabinets, as shown. Cut a length of 18⁄2 solid-core wiring-sold as thermostat wiring-so it’s long enough to reach from the dimmer down the back of, and underneath, the corner cabinet. Plug the power supply into the new outlet. Place the power supply and the dimmer on top of the upper cabinets. Step 5 Plug in the Power Supply Photo by Kolin Smith
#Under counter task led warm light wired free#
Tip: Let the system’s wiring hang free until all the LED tape is in place, then go back and secure wires and terminals to the cabinets with staples and screws. Complete the connection by tightening the setscrew. Add the power supply’s red and black wires to the inputs on the wireless dimmer: red to positive, black or white to negative, as shown. Screw the outlet in place and secure the trim plate.
#Under counter task led warm light wired install#
Install the box in the wall, strip the wires, and attach them to the new outlet. Step 4 Add Dimmer Photo by Kolin SmithĪt the opening for the outlet, cut the 12⁄2 wire and thread it through a remodeling box. Rewire the existing outlet, push all the wiring into the box, and screw the outlet back into place. Repeat the process for the black and ground wires. Grab all three white wires-for the existing outlet, the new outlet, and the pigtail-and join them with a wire nut. Strip all the ends of the pigtails and the ends of the 12⁄2 wire. Cut the first 6 inches of wire for pigtails, and use a utility knife to free the three individual wires from the yellow sheathing. Pull the fish tape through the knockout until about 10 inches of wire is exposed, then free the fish tape. Hook the ground to the fish tape and cover the connection with electrical tape, as shown. With pliers, strip the insulation off the length of 12⁄2 wire. Step 3 Pull Down the Wire Photo by Kolin Smith If you’re adding an outlet, locating the new one in the same stud bay as an existing outlet makes using the fish tape easier. Tip: Plan to use an accessible but hidden outlet to run the LED power supply, like one above or inside a cabinet. Feed the fish tape up through the knockout, as shown, and out of the new hole in the drywall.
Use a drywall saw to cut a hole for the remodeling box in the wall above the cabinet. Pull out the outlet and, with a screwdriver, bang free one of the metal knockouts in the box. Start by flipping off the breaker to the existing outlet, then check with a tester that the electricity is off. To power the lights, we installed a remodeling wiring box above an upper cabinet and borrowed from the dedicated circuit powering the microwave. Step 2 Feed Up the Fish Tape Photo by Kolin Smith SUNDAY Run wiring for the lights (Steps 9–14). SATURDAY Add the new outlet and power supply (Steps 1–8). Step 1 Overview Illustration by Gregory Nemec Thanks to Zach Covington and Beau Birch, Armacost Lighting Baltimore, Maryland. All by Armacost Lighting, The Home Depot. LED lighting power supply (not shown), $40. Warm-white LED tape lighting, about $5 per linear foot.
#Under counter task led warm light wired how to#
Follow along as This Old House senior technical editor Mark Powers shows you how to let in the warm light. The wiring is thin enough to hide behind the cabinet face frames, so you’ll never see it, and a wireless dimmer switch puts the control where you want it without putting holes in your walls. Because the system daisy-chains light strips together, it’s customizable to any kitchen configuration, including our L-shaped layout with wall cabinets of varying heights. But with low-voltage wiring, brightening a kitchen is easy: Press some LED-lined tape in place, and soft-white light will beam down and show off your countertop and backsplash. There was a time when installing undercabinet lighting meant picking between chunky, flickering fluorescent tubes or burning-hot halogens.
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